Surfing

The water is cool to the touch, a shiver runs through my body. I’m in the middle of a crystal clear ocean with a tint of blue, surrounded by green, lush mountains.

I sit on the hard, rough, white big board attached to me by the ankle. I hear the waves crashing all around me, creating a peaceful sound. I look over my right shoulder and see a giant wave, towering over my head, coming towards me. I whip my head back towards the shore, nervously. I close my eyes and take a deep breath.

Then I begin to paddle.

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